Holiday Journal

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Gyeongju #3 - Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond (Anapji) , Three-story Stone Pagoda in Gameun Temple Site and Royal Tomb of King Munmu, Eupcheonhyang Mural Painting Village - (Korea Tour)
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Last Modified : 2017/04/11

Travel regions : South Korea
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  • Start
  •  
  • Gyochon Village
  •  
  • Hilton Hotel
  •  
  • Padosori-gil
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  • Finish



Must-go Place in Gyeongju! Night Views at Donggung Palace and Wolji(Anapji) 동궁,월지


There are so many places to visit in Gyeongju but there are only a few to take a walk at night after check-in. Most of the shops close at night and the whole city gets dark so if you're looking for a place to walk to enjoy the night view, I bet Anapji(Donggung Palace and Wolji) is the best place.


This is located to the right of Cheomseongdae(observatory), and it was originally a royal village site. Donggung where the crown prince used to stay in the Silla era was here and Wolji refers to the pond, on which moonlight reflects. So it's still called Donggung Palace and Wolji. Later, the united Silla was destroyed and this place was ruined throughout Koryeo and Joseon Dynasty eras. The poets who felt sorry to see this place as an empty space wrote poems that go like “glamorous Donggung Palace was gone and only wild geese and ducks are there," and after these poems, the place was called Anapji(雁鴨池) which is a word of wild goose 'Anan(雁)' together with duck 'Ap(鴨)'.




This place used to be full of wild geese and ducks but is currently decorated as the most beautiful place in Gyeongju. I came here to see night views but as the Golden Time passed, the sky turned so dark that I was worried the pictures wouldn't be so good. Well, I gotta do my best. This is the first royal palace at the entrance. There aren't so many royal palaces left now but this is royal villa in the united Silla era so the site looked large. I wonder how they Glamorous Donggung Palace and Wolji looked like in old times.



I wish the sky was brighter for a better picture. It's a pity but not so bad I think.



Anapji is an artificial pond. It's one that represents historical site of Silla pond. Most ponds are small but this is so wide for a pond. The reason why it is so big is because of the unique principles of this one. The west part is straight and the right part is winding. The straight part is open and wide and the winding part has hidden space that makes the whole pond look bigger than it is. You cannot see the whole view anywhere you see it.




When the night came, it became more beautiful. As I said earlier, it's winding here so you can't see the whole pond. It's designed to make it look bigger than it really is. One more thing, if you look at the curved side closer, it's twice higher than the straight part so that people would feel like they are looking down the ocean. This was to make the small pond look bigger.




Donggung Palace and Wolji at night, what a sweet walk it was!



I sometimes visit Gyeongbokgung Palace at night but it's not even comparable to this one. It's so beautiful.



I wouldn't see the difference even if the picture is upside down because the sky is so dark. ^^*




Honestly, it was a really sweet walk. The whole architectural techniques in the period of the Three States are converged in Anapji built in the United Silla. The entrance of water is made exactly the same as the pond garden in Baekje. Of course the architecture is from Silla. This is a place that you can see only in Gyeongju. Don't forget to come here. I strongly suggest you should visit!


Map

Address : 102, Wonhwa-ro, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do (경상북도 경주시원화로 102)

Telephone : 054-772-4041

Opening hours : 09:00 ~ 20:10 (No holidays)

Fees : Adult : 2,000 won, Adolescent : 1,200 won, Child : 600 won.

Parking fee : Free



Hwangodong Eorimji Haejangguk with Tasty Naejang Tang 어림지 해장국



When it gets dark in Gyeongju, there are few places to eat or go. When Anapji is closed around 10 at night, most restaurants were closed so it was hard to find some place to eat.

And a resident who was passing by us to go to Eorimji Haejangguk that cooks Haejang-guk(hangover soup). Wherever you go, residents know the best places to eat. So you can just trust what they say! I had to check it out.




Was it around 10:30, I guess it was around that time. It was late but I saw quite many customers who probably couldn't find anywhere else to eat like us.




Let's check the menu… what should I eat… We ordered one Naejang tang(beef tripe and intestine soup) that the resident told me to have and one Seonji Haejangguk(ox blood hangover soup). The prices were 8,000 won and 7,000 won, respectively.



The common dishes were peppers and kimchi. You can take Kimchi out of small pot on the table, and those peppers are Cheongyang red peppers, which are so spicy. Be careful! I had one bite and had 100 hiccups.


First, Naejang tang was served in a big earthen bowl. The looks of it made me drool.




The color of the soup looks tasty and spicy that stimulates my apptetite. How would it taste?




Inside the soup, I saw different parts of pig's intestines, especially entrails. These are supposed to be tough but they were so soft. I've eaten gukbap(rice soup) countlessly in different regions in Korea but never had seen the soup with entails in it. They were not tough nor did they smell disgusting. I don't know what they put in the soup but it tasted so nice. It's unique and savory. Try it!




This is Seonji Haejangguk. But I can see something in the soup that looks like galbi(ribs).




That's right. Seonji Haejangguk has a piece of galbi.




Clear and tasty soup boiled with bean sprouts had one big piece of galbi and seonji(clotted blood from slaughtered cows) that I love so much. I wondered how it tastes.




Right after I finished the piece of galbi, I put seonji on the top of outer leaves of cabbage, it was mindblowing. The soup tasted like Galbi tang(short rib soup), I guess it's boiled with beef. If you prefer neat taste over thick soup, I say you should try Seonji Haejangguk here. The light and aromatic taste of soup is the best here. I guess two dishes we ordered at Eorimji Haejangguk restaurant were successful. I say this is one of must-eat restaurant in Gyeongju.


Map

Address : 224, Wonhwa-ro, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do (경북 경주시 원화로 224)

Telephone : 054-774-2214

Opening Hours : 24 hrs



The Story about Three-Story Stone Pagoda in Gameun Temple Site and Royal Tomb of King Munmu 감은사지 삼층석탑, 문무대왕릉


In order to see the historic sites in Gyeongju, it'd be more interesting to know and study the history and the stories in it rather to see them just out of curiosity. I'll tell you about the temple site that I found so interesting and about a royal tomb. It's where you can feel the King's will and agony that he wanted to protect his country even after his death.


The King who unified three countries into Silla was King Munmu. In modern days, he got the title of Great King for his works and his love for his country. After he unified the countries, he started to build a tesmple in Yongdang-ri, Yangbukmyeon, Gyeongju-si(current address) to protect it from Japanese invasions and the construction lasted until the second year (in 682) of his son, King Sinmun's era and his son named this temple to appreciate his father's grace, Gameunsa(感恩寺).


According to King's will that he wanted to protect the country as a dragon after his death, his son held a funeral on a rock called Daewangam(大王巖; rock of great king) in the middle of the sea, and that rock is the royal tomb of King Munmu in the sea. And there's space under Geumdang(金堂; the main building of a temple) in Daeungjeon of Gameunsa Temple for vice-king, who became a dragon after death, could get in and out of the temple.




It's not known when Gameunsa was demolished but there are only two three-story stone pagodas with a temple site between them. Silla people used to believe that the Buddhism would save the world. For example, they built Sanchunwangsa Temple in Gyeongju during the battle against Tang, and built Gameunsa Temple to beat Japanese raiders.





These three-story stone pagodas built to beat Japanese raiders with Buddhism. They are designated as National Treasure No.112.



There was a seal in a tour info office in front of stone pagoda. I guess there's a stamp tour for Gyeongju historic culture tour. I would've gotten it all if I knew it earlier. You know I really love this kind of thing!


So this is the only one I got.


Map

Address : 55-1, Yongdang-ri, Yangbuk-myeon, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do (경상북도 경주시 양북면 용당리 55-1)

Telephone : 054-779-6109

Parking & entrance : free




When you drive about 5 minutes from Gameunsa (temple), you'll get to Munmudaewangreung(royal tomb of King Munmu) under the eastern sea water. Whose tomb is this?




You see that island 200m away from the land, that's the tomb of a King. It's kind of a water tomb. As I said earlier, the King Munmu who unified Silla left a will to leave his remains in the water to protect the country from Japanese raiders even after he's dead, and that's how he was buried there. This is so unique that you cannot see anything like this anywhere else even in Korea.




Now it became a lonely and alone tomb where the only visitors are seagulls. I threw some snacks to them and they got busy. Seagulls here are like pigeons in a park.




While I played with seagulls, I enjoyed the beautiful view of the sea.





If you're going to Gyeongju, don't forget to three story stone pagoda in Gameun Temple site and the royal tomb of King Munmu near the temple site. And don't forget what I said today. I say you should definitely go here in Gyeongju.


+ Address : 26, Bongri-gil, Yangbuk-myeon, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do

+ Telephone : 054-779-8743



Mural Painting Village around Eupcheon Port, Gyeongju that Makes You a Sensitive Girl
읍천항 벽화마을


For the past few years, my trip to Gyeongju was to take a look around historic sites but today I'm going to do something sweet. This place is Eupcheon Port in Eupcheon-ri, Yangnam-myeon, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do, and it's a mural painting village where you might become sensitive like a girl. The mural paintings on the walls of this village were submitted to 'Eupcheon Port Gallery Mural Painting Contest', and the art students in the world gave it a try. The awarded ones were marked next to the paintings and most of winners are from Yeungnam University. I guess Yeungnam University has a powerful asset in art department. Well, anyway, let's get inside the sea.




Hello, Eupcheon Port~ This area is famous Gyeongju Jusangjeolli. For those who are going to take a walk around Jusangjeolli, it'd be more comfortable to park the car in Eupcheon Port and you could drop by this place as well.






There's a small forest behind the port and calm sea in front, which is a typical beach town. Mural paintings on low walls looked so pretty.




I don't know if they were selected in awards but I get the feeling that the quality is higher than other villages. Small and pretty paintings made me enjoy my walk.




This painting seems to have won the award. I like the feeling. ^^*



One painting made the whole house look different, didn't it?




Look how the ugly iron gate turned into a cute item along with painting!




Shall we get into the alley?




I say the mural paintings look quite fascinating, don't you think?




This is a picture puzzle!!



Here's an alligator, alphabet A, banana and so on, can you find anything? ^^*



Right in front of mural painting village, there's Eupcheon Port. The fact that the country town where there used to be few strangers is attracting tourists with paintings is quite amusing. It is likely that they build accommodations and shops, in turn, the economy gets better. Let's take Tongyeong Dongpirant Village for an example, the small village on the hill was in danger of demolition for redevelopment project but it is an interesting town now where even an old lady is working as a barista and living her second life.




The colors were warm, look at the cute smiling giraffe on the left.



The square-shaped town refrigeration warehouse became a drawing paper for artist. I say this is the prettiest refrigeration warehouse in fishing villages in Korea, agree?




One of the paintings was attracting people's eyes with phrases like a girl. “I can smell the flower from you~♬" It's a pop song but sounds nice, doesn't it?




I think this place is worth to visit in Gyeongju. It'd be better to see Jusangjeolli after you watch this place. There's a big free parking space as well so you don't have to worry about where to park like you'd do in Dongpirang Village. For those who've been to Mural Painting Village in Gyeongju Eupcheon Port, “you have a nice day~".


Map

Address : 195-2, Eupcheon-ri, Yangnam-myeon, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do (경상북도 경주시 양남면 읍천리 195-2)


Gyeongju Jusangjeolli Padosori-gil(Wave Sound Road) where You Can Walk Listening to the Sound of Wave 주상절리 파도소리길


Last time I showed you the Mural Panting Village in Gyeongju Eupcheon Port and today I'm going to take a look around Jusangjeolli Padosori-gil. They both are in the same area so you can just park your car in a big free parking lot and visit them one by one. Padosori-gil route starts from Eupcheon Port to Haseo Port, which is 1.7km, and especially, you can take a walk listening to the sound of waves. Plus, it has unique Jusangjeolli that you can't see anywhere else in Korea. It's so beautiful and has values to preserve that it's Natural Monument No.536. Take a walk here along with Mural Painting Village, you'll love whomever you're walking with. Let's go.




Once you park your car in the big parking lot, Padosori-gil starts right from there.




You'll see a red lighthouse and white lighthouse to Eupcheon Port direction. Do you have any idea what this color means? I'll tell you again, red one means when the ship is facing the lighthouse in the sea, there's a rock or obstacle so it needs to go round to the left, and the white one means the opposite. Like in the picture, the breakwaters are established on both sides so the ship needs to get in the middle to get to the port. There were so many people who are not aware of this. You should brag about it to your friends sometime. ^^*




So, shall we take a walk watching the beautiful east coast to your left?



I'm supposed to go up the hill to the right and I chose this path to walk on gravels. If you want to climb up, there's another way in the middle so you can follow that route.



The first thing you meet is this Chulleongdari(rocking bridge). Literally it rocks a lot. I was with a stranger on the bridge and I tried to rock it, and the stranger cursed at me. Well…




It's 1.7km route so two-way should be 3.4km. You could sit down taking a look and the maximum would be 2 hours to walk the whole winding road.




Walk a little bit and you'll see View Park. The first thing you see here is fan shaped Jusangjeolli. It looks really strange!



Fan shaped Jusangseolli is the beauty of Padosori-gil and some people call it 'the flower of east coast'. It looks really exotic. I remember Choi Su-jong used to be there who played Gim Chun-su in KBS drama.




Along the coast, there's wild flower garden that would brighten up the mood.




It's a little bit different from Jeju Island. Black rocks reminded me of Jeju but round pebbles look like the southern sea.




This is Jusangjeolli with a pine tree. The roots are spreading through the rock which is unique. It's a mystery that a human can never make this, only nature can.




I'll take a rest next to the rock listening to the sound of wave.




The waves lapping the shore sounded more cheerful than usual. It made me feel fresh~.




Jeju has unique views that you can only see them in Jeju. But Gyeongju also has places like that.



That high thing in front is Jusangjeolli. Other Jusangjeollis are located on the beach but this one is so far that I couldn't see close. Just like its name, the rocks are pointed to the sky.




Then we walked more and saw a sign with peculiar walls. What are these?




These are not walls, they look like stratum of gravels mixed with soil. This place used to be ocean, so I've heard. Now the ground upheaved but it used to be ocean so they are in deed sedimentary stratum of gravels for a long time.




After we saw peculiar sedimentary stratum, we saw laying Jusangjeolli.




Literally, the rocks that look like somebody laid pepero(Korean snack) out there. They're so cute that I could lift them up. ^^* They seem rare art pieces made by nature.




Our final destination, Jusangjeolli, is right there when you approach Haseo Hang. The fan shaped Jusangjeolli was impressive but I think the laying rocks were more impressive.


Lava was running to the ocean, overwhelmed by the power of waves and became rocks. I believe there are no other coasts with this exotic view. If you're in Gyeongju, you should try Jusangjeoli Padosori-gil and Mural Painting Village in Eupcheon Port. It's a short route which is good for a walk. I suggest that this is a place worth to visit. So I'll finish my journal now. I hope my little tips would be helpful for your sweet tour.


Map
Address : 14-3, Yangnam Hanggu-gil, Yangnam-myeon, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do (경상북도 경주시 양남면 양남항구길 14-3)



Last comment


How was your trip with me for two days? Gyeongju has so many tombs providing people with comfortable place to rest. The city used to be the capital during Silla era for 1,000 years so it's within bounds to say that the whole city is an old museum and whatever theme you travel with, you will be satisfied because it is a small flatland city which is good for walking, taking bicycles and driving. You won't find better city that connects life and death, past and present than Gyeongju does. I hope you find my journal to be helpful for your sweet trip to Gyeongju.













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