Holiday Journal

• Start
•  
• Gyeonggi International Ceramic Biennale Gwngju
•  
• Sagimakgol Ceramics Village
•  
• Icheon Naratnim Icheon Rice
•  
• Gyeonggi International Ceramics Biennale Icheon
•  
• Gyeonggi International Cermics Biennale Yeoju
•  
• Sun Valley Hotel
•  
• Bobaene
•  
• Yeoju Sinreuk Temple
•  
• Yeong Tomb
•  
• Gwangju Jincheon Yukmyeon
•  
• Namhan Fortress
•  
• Finish

Gwangju 'Namhan Fortress' Short Trail Around South Gate(Jihwamun)

There are 4 fortresses that used to defend Seoul; Gaeseong to the North, Suwon to the South, Ganghwa to the West, and Gwangju Namhan fortress. Namhan Fortress encompasses total 11.76km in length at 500m above the seal level. It was built by stone and formed 7.7km(3hrs 20mns) of most trekking course. Today, I will introduce you about an hour of trekking course along forest trail from the most accessible place Sanseong rotary. There are parking lot and bus stop at the Sanseong rotary. Most people start to do trekking from here.

The Namhan Fortress was built in Baekje Dynasty and it has been the core of national defense since then. It was rebuilt and maintained until Joseon Dynasty. It shows the process of building according to the periods. It was formed to implement defense function and be self-sufficient in case of emergency with over 80 wells and 45 ponds inside the fortress.

It takes about 15 minutes to go to south gate from the Sanseong rotary. There are tombstones of Namhan Fortress next to the road. All the tombs in the fortress gathered here. These tombstones were built to honor the memory of those who governed well their people. It's hard to understand what is exactly written since it's written in Chinese characters, but let's pass by here reminding its meaning.

If you walk uphill for 15 minutes, you will face to the south gate(Jihwamun). Namhan Fortress has 4 gates in the four cardinal directions. The south gate is the biggest and largest center gate among them. Until now it's the busiest gate where many people go in and out. There is a heartbreaking story that King Injo passed through this gate in order to get into the Namhan Fortress to flee from the Manchu Invasion of Korea in 1636.

It looks like this from the outside of the palace. From here, I can get the view of Seongnam-si at a glance. It remains as the place of painful history where Injo, the 16th King of Joseon Dynasty and his subjects knelt down before the military of Qing at Samjeondo(Present Songpa) 350 years ago. You don't have to feel bad of this history but we should not forget about it while taking pretty views.

Rampart leaning to the inside seems so beautiful with shade of green leaves. It has another beauty from the rampart of Suwonhwaseong.

Rampart of Suwonhwaseong is exactly optimized for the war by cutting out nearby trees. I don't know if it's because Namhan Fortress is located deep in the mountain, the shade of large trees casts over the rampart. If you are in some distance, it won't be easy to find the rampart. Walking along the rampart is cool and refreshing.

If you keep walking along the 7.7km-long of rampart, you will come back to the starting point. It was formed along the ridge so uphills and downhills are quite steep. The circuit of the rampart is 2 km longer than the one of Suwon Hwaseong(5.7km). It takes 3 hours and 20 minutes to finish the whole course. It's 1 hour longer than the course at Suwon Hwaseong.

Wooden resting places are well set here and there on the road. It's convenient to take some rest under the shade of trees. I take a cup of lemon tea and clean my camera lens here. Let's go again~

Let's walk down to the Sanseong rotary along the trail in a forest. Under the rampart, there is a forest trail toward Cheonjusaji. When you go down to the right from the three-way intersection, you will come back to the rotary past Manhae memorial museum. It's great to walk under the trees that make cool shade.

Walking along the forest trail, you will meet habitat of Mugunghwa(Rose of Sharon) and find spring flowers are in blossom between stairs. It's unfortunate that roses of Sharon didn't bloom, yet. They do in the summer. You can appreciate roses of Sharon in full blossom from July to October at the latest.

To fill the time for the 1 hour-course, I didn't keep walking along the rampart. I went down the forest trail on the right side of the three-way intersection. It is unpaved and doesn't look like road at first glance, but you can easily catch if it's the road where people used to walk or not with a closer look. When you keep walking this trail, you can walk through the furrow that local farmers worked on and along the small stream. It will be easy to find the way with the free map that is given on the spot. You will fully enjoy the scenery of countryside. It's also a great choice to walk whole 7.7km of course!

+ Address : Sanseong-ri, Jungbu-myeon, Gwangju-si, Gyeonggi-do
+ Telephone : 031-743-6610
+ Parking Fee : 1,000 won for 1 day
+ Entrance Fee : Free

Reconstructed Gwangju 'Namhan Sanseong(Fortress) Haenggung(Temporary Palace)' after 100 years
Namhan Fortress has much painful memories throughout the Korean history. The King Injo came here to flee from the Manchu Invasion of Korea in 1636 for 47 days fighting against Qing and knelt down before the military of Qing. There was the building that enshrined royal families' ancestral tablets of Joseon Kingdom. Besides, this place have been completely destroyed since it had been the base for unified loyal troops against Japanese imperialism. Nobody had thought of rebuilding this fortress, since it was the site of disgraceful history. It was restored and opened to the public in recent years through 10-year process.

In Joseon Dynasty, each region had 20 Haenggungs(Temporary palaces). Haenggung is the temporary palace where kings stay in other cities out of Seoul. The temporary palace was built for visiting tomb, fleeing from war, and recreation. King Jeongjo built the temporary palace of Suwonhwaseong to visit Yungreung(Tomb of his father Sadoseja-King Jangjo), but one of Namhan fortress was built to prepare for war. It was actually used during the war. Let's go into the palace.

This is the main entrance, 'Hannamru'. As a custom of royal court, people needed to go through 3 gates to reach the royal palace. There were only Oesammun(Outer three gates) and Jungmun(Inner gate) here. This main entrance was built during the reign of King Jeongjo. However, 8 base stones supporting the front column disappeared when it was recently restored. It was done with stones from other places. Stone pillars in front of us are returned from nearby elementary school.

It has admission fee. It costs 2,000 won for adults, 1,000 won for youths, free for children and senior citizens aged over 64. For more details about open hour, etc, I will talk about it at the bottom of this post.

Entering the front gate, the yard is full of spring. Dandelions are waving as like it will be fluttered everywhere. It's amazing that they naturally usher in spring, even though I feel my nose tickles.

Japanese honored guests must have come this day. I want to listen to the explanation in front of the outer three gates but I don't understand Japanese. I should quickly pass by them. ^^* Do you see the stairs in the middle are high and ones in the both sides are low? In the Joseon society, proprieties were extremely important. Among three ways, there was a road called Eodo(御道) that was allowed to walk for only kings. What will happen if everybody from the top to bottom walks on this way? There will receive 100 strokes of the stick. Most people can die with 30 strockes, so it's almost like a death penalty. However I ostentatiously walk through the Eodo. ^^*

When you go through the outer three gates, there is a space that leads you to the inner gate. The photo exhibition is held in front of the long wall. It shows the modern history of temporary palace in Namhan Fortress. There are pictures taken by American missionaries in 19C and ones of families of citizens who visited here. This exhibition makes me feel like I am back in the past. These pictures might have been very helpful for the reconstruction.

There is an impressive family picture. This is the picture of the family of Nam Jae-ho(Bottom left with black school uniform), former boss of Gwangju Culture Center, in front of Sueojangdae(Defense commander's post). This picture was take 2 months before the Korean War. It' told that his father was Chambong(Minor official) of Sungryeol Shrine in the Namhan Fortress. The baby embraced by his mother became a head of Jungbu-myeon(Township), Gwangju-si where the temporary palace is located.

Entering the outer three gates), you will reach Oehaengjeon(外行殿, Detached palace). The Oehaengjeon is also called Jeongdang(正當) which is the main hall of the temporary palace. It's the office where kings work. There is a report that one pillar of the detached palace was shot by the Qing's artillery, Hongipo during the Manchu Invasion of Korea in 1636. If you have a good look at 6 pillars in front of the palace, several Juryeons(Verse couplets written on a plank) were put on the pillars. There are good phrases and contents. If you are a person who pick things up quickly, you would recognize that there was Juryeons on the pillars of Hannamru at the entrance.

There is a small building called Iljanggak on the right side of the detached palace. Yusu(Governor) of Gwangju lived here. Inside the building was reproduced with typical scholar's rooms of Joseon Dynasty, a low wooden bench and bamboo wife. I would like to live once like a scholar!

If you walk up more from the Iljanggak, there is a narrow gate to Naehaengjeon(Inner palace) on the left side. There is Jwaseungdang(坐勝當) which is the office of Yusu on the right. Jwaseung(坐勝) means sit-and win. It strongly conveys the message that he will defeat his enemy with the good scheme that deserves to win. It proves again that this place was created to prepare for war.

This is Naehaengjeon(內行展) where the king lived. As I mentioned before, a building which has 'Jeon(展)' in its name is open to only kings, queens, and queen dowagers. Inside the building is exactly reproduces the room and floor that the kings used. It will be interesting to have a quick look.

The king slept and lived here so the building is surrounded by high wall. It has an exclusive structure with affiliated facilities located outside of the wall. It's fun to imagine of retainers at that time who came in and out of that narrow gate bringing stuff to the king.

This is a backyard which is located at the end of the temporary palace. It looks like a wilderness now but there was a pavilion called 'Yi Wi-jeong' here. It was good place to spend spare time with the archery. There must have been at least small walking path and flower way, right? I guess it must have been the best resting place for the king who is not allowed to go out on the street.

There is the walking path of the fortress around the temporary palace and the park is well designed. It's best to take a stroll on a warm spring day. It would be good to take a round the Namhan Fortress, look around the temporary palace, and have a drink with duck meat at nearby simple restaurant. It's easy to access by public transportation, and you can park with only 1,000 won for 1 day. You can have a pleasant day without spending lots of money.

+ Address : 784-29, Namhansanseong-ro, Jungbu-myeon, Gwangju-si, Gyeonggi-do
+ Telephone : 031-777-7500
+ Entrance Fee : Adult 2,000 won, Youth 1,000 won
+ Parking Fee : 1,000 won for 1 day
+ Open Hour : 10 am ~ 6 pm (November~March Until 5 pm)
+ Holiday : Every Monday