-
Start
-
Gyochon Village
-
Hilton Hotel
-
Padosori-gil
-
Finish
1 Night & 2 Days in Gyeongju
This year has a leap month yet two nine months of the lunar calendar so the fall seems like longer than it usually is. First thing that comes across our minds would be school trip when we think of autumn. And school trip reminds us of Gyeongju. Like this, everybody in Korea has a history and memory of the city, Gyeongju. In Gyeongju, as a capital city for 1,000 years of Silla Dynasty, there are places that I'm sure 100% of Koreans have been but there are more places that are not known to people. Today, I'm going to show you less known places quickly.
1,000 Years of Yangbang Village, 'Gyochon Village' in Gyeongju 교촌마을
Gyeongju Gyochon is a must-visit place in Gyeongju. Gyochon, which is also called Gyodong or Gyori, used to have the first National University in Korea, Gukhak, built in the second year of King Munmu(in 682) era. Currently, it's commonly called Gyochon Village. It has a few hundreds of tile-roofed houses and there are people living in some of them except the rest, which are used as experience centers, restaurants and workshops. Especially, the noblesse oblige of the house of Choibuja(rich Choi family) that has kept its family name and status for 400 years in Gyeongju would be very instructive for kids. Let's have a quick look at it.
That bridge over the brook flowing in front of Gyochon Village called Woljeonggyo(月淨橋) was under construction two years ago and it seems almost done now. It's known that Great Monk Wonhyo crossed that bridge to get to Yoseokgung in the united Silla era, and its shape was unique that the lower part of pier looks like a ship prepared for flood in summer. It's not completed yet that I couldn't cross it but on that bridge, you'd be able to see the whole Gyochon Village at a glance.
You'll walk with me between the tile-roofed houses slowly. It's an amazing weather to walk~
Young couples were riding tandem bicycles in pairs. They looked so young and tried so hard to look good to each other. ^^*
In the alley, the high gates and walls looked novel that a man of high class would've lived in it.
Putting tiles on the top of the tiles to support the earthen walls looks loving, doesn't it?
In the village square, the families were having a good time.
He couldn't make even one. I saw it!!
Hanguktogi is a center that sells ceramics where you can also make them yourself. The sculptures made of porcelain clay at the entrance were gorgeous.
Kids were making cups and dishes. I tried it as well but it wasn't easy. I have slow hands so making a small cup took me more than an hour.
A teacher and a kid were making a ceramic. It must've been a good memory for kids.
'Mommy, I love you'…I see mommy's behind this. ^^*
Again, we walked along the alley between high walls. At the end of the alley, that person was taking pictures as well, why don't we exchange?
This is the old house of Choi family in Gyo-dong. This family has been rich for over 400 years through 12 generations and they did not exploit others but helped, cared the poor, and strictly practiced and kept noblesse oblige such that its family is more respected by people. Especially, six mottos (六訓) of this family would motivate today's people as well. It goes like this.
Six family mottos(六訓)
1.Take the state exam but do not take higher position than Jinsa.
2.Do not collect properties more than 10,000 Seoks(a unit that measures rice), and if it exceeds 10,000 seoks, returnthe rest to the society.
3.Do not buy other person's land in a lean year.
4.Host passer-by(過客) with devotion and care.
5.A woman who marries to this family wears cotton clothes for 3 years after marriage.
6.Do not let anyone starve within 100 ri(50km) area.
In front of a guest room, the pomegranate tree was laden with pomegranates. It must've been special fruits that they could eat only at this time of year, right?
Two years ago, an old lady was living in the main building and I'm wondering if she's still well.
After we got out of the old house of Choi family, I don't know where it ends but I saw a long line.
The line is longer than 100 people that lead to the famous Gyori Gimbap. Is it THAT good that they stand in a line like this? Everybody must've been thinking they've come here anyway so they might as well try it.
Inside the shop, the employees were so busy with making Gimbap for customers.
So I stood in line and tried it as well. It's crispy and had much egg in it. The taste was quite unique, and this is Yachaegyeran Gimbap(Gimbap with vegetables and egg). It was good anyway.
We walked more from Gyori Gimbap and we saw Gyeongju Hyanggyo. Hyanggyo is the Confucian temple and school to teach local students in the Joseon Dynasty era. There used to be Gukhak, a national university in Silla Dynasty era, and it was used for local education as Hyanghak in the Goryeo Dynasty and Hyanggyo in Joseon Dynasty era.
As we entered, we found a unique well. Big rocks were surrounding the well and a waterway was installed to make the used water is not flowing back in the well. It was my first time to see it so it was kinda exotic for me too.
In the back yard, the giant tree measuring more than both arms' span round is like it's telling us the time being there.
I could see big houses as I entered the yard. Especially the Daeseongjeon Shrine on the right is designated as treasure No.1727. It was burnt during the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 but started to be rebuilt during the King Seonjo era and completed during the King Gwanghae era. But I could see people lying and resting on the treasure. There's no sign to prohibit anything so I guess it's allowed.
How did you like Gyochon Village? It seems worth to visit, doesn't it? It's one of a few places in Korea that you can both experience both Silla and Joseon Dynasties's cultures altogether. I suggest that you should visit here in Gyeongju.
Address : 39-2, Gyochon-gil, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do (경상북도 경주시 교촌길 39-2)
Telephone : 054-779-6142
Website : http://www.gyochon.or.kr
Cooking Skill of First Daughter-in-law in the Main Family, Gyochon Village 'Choiga Bapsang' 최가밥상
After four hours of driving to get to Gyeongju and taking a look around Gyochon Village, I was starving to death that I couldn't stand any longer. This restaurant is called Choiga Bapsang in Gyochon Village, Gyo-dong. This restaurant specialises in cooking a table for one person which originally was prepared in a party or family event in the Choibuja (Choi family known as wealth in Gyeongju) house, and I found this through online search. It's a bit expensive but I've been told they use the same recipe from old times so I was wondering how it would taste. Let's see what they serve.
This restaurant is close to House of Choibuja, Woljeong Bridge, Gyerin and Cheomseongdae(observatory), so it's quite a nice place to drop by. There's a free parking lot as well. I entered the door that is as high as its class.
I envy the owner of this well-maintained garden. There were small doors to detached buildings nearby and I could assume how rich they used to be.
As I saw the prices on the menu, yeah they are expensive. What should I eat……We ordered one 'beef soup with rice set(Yukgaejang)' and one 'Gyeongsangdo-style Bibimbap set'. Each one costs 13,000 won.
They use nearly harvested rice and never use low-quality seasonings including cooking oil or sugar. Every dish is made in this restaurant so they looked trustworthy.
As we finished the order, the appetisers were served. This is Korean pancake set for tasting. If you look at the menu, a main dish of Korean pancake set costs 15,000 won. They were very delicious. None of them was too strong, instead they were just clean and we could feel the original taste of ingredients. They're really good.
This is Gyeongsangdo-style Bibimbap set. It's served for one person on a small plate. I was told it used to be served in Joseon Dynasty era as well. There were five different common dishes, various pastes and chilled cucumber soup.
I have a few things to say about Gochujang that determines the taste of Bibimbap. This has been passed down through generations in Choibuja family called Yukjang, which is made of fried meat. A little bit spicy yet aromatic Yukjang goes with Bibimbap so well. I must say this is the best Gochujang for Bibimbap that I've tasted.
You know that you can assume the cooking skill from each house's paste(sauce). Doenjang(soybean paste) tasted really nice. This is also mixed with Bibimbap and it tasted like it's fried with anchovies but it wasn't salty at all, rather delicious. Especially the taste of anchovies added more flavor to Bibimbap. This is called Myeoljang(anchovy paste).
I could eat fresh and hot rice since they serve it after they got an order, not keeping them in the fridge or in a bowl in the room temperature in advance. I could feel that they care even small details.
Those who're used to regular Bibimbap would fall in love with this. With Yukjang that I highly praised and myeoljang, it tastes amazing. It's not salty or spicy and it's rather light and fresh that you can taste every ingredient. This, I strongly suggest you to try.
Secondly, 'beef soup and rice set', the best menu for guests in Joseon Dynasty era was served. This is called Yukgaejang(hot spicy meat stew) these days. The common dishes were the same.
Even by looking at it, my mouth watered. In a big bowl, it had more ingredients than stew itself. Yukgaejang is supposed to have bunch of solid ingredients, mostly vegetables, in it because when they're boiled, you can enjoy the rich and deep taste of ingredients.
Yukgaejang at Choigabapsang does not contain any sort of artificial seasonings such that after taste is neat and clean. They use enough ingredients so they do not need artificial seasonings in the first place. Last year, I asked the TV show
Does this picture say it enough? What more do you need? I do not like artificial seasonings, I prefer the original tastes of ingredients and I loved it. Except for a couple of kkakdugi(sliced radish kimchi), we finished them all. ^^* If you're looking for a place to eat in Gyeongju, I say you don't have to think about it, just look for Choigabapsang. I say you should go here.
Address : 21, Gyochonan-gil, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do (경상북도 경주시 교촌안길 21)
Telephone : 054-775-7557
Opening Hours : 11:00 - 21:00 (No holidays except on National Holidays)
Mysterious Spirit in the Fall of Gyerim 계림
After we passed Gyochon Village in Gyeongju and entered the forest path, we could see Gyerin with mysterious spirit right away. Normally, people enter from Cheomseongdae(observatory) or old site of Banwolseong but we had to went through back entrance because we dropped by the old house of Choi family. So this entrance made us feel like strangely mysterious, and we felt like the place was very good to rest on a mat because there were plenty of pine trees, zelkova trees and fruit trees.
Gyerim has a history of creation of Silla Dynasty era. The story of birth of Kim Al-ji, one of progenitors family names (姓) known as Park, Seok and Kim, is also based on this place. There's a legend that a person followed the crows of a white rooster and found a money chest and the progenitor of Gyeongju Kim family, Kim Al-ji, was in the chest. Kim(金; gold) was named after the gold chest. And his ancestor is the 13th King of Silla, King Michu.
Gyerim had an amazing night view but the daylight view is as amazing as it was. Around the back door leading to Gyochon, there's a dense forest of unusual pine trees.
It was on weekends at the time so I could so many families and couples resting on a mat. It's quiet and cozy, which is perfect for a picnic.
You could take a walk around the high ancient tomb. By the way, what's that small car?
A young driver was practicing driving on the lawn. Adorable.
On the back, ancient tombs altogether make you feel strange, don't they?
Each pine tree seems to have its own story through the history.
The persimmon trees were laden with so many persimmons and a lot of them fell on the floor, but nobody seems to eat it because it was not ripen yet.
I didn't steal it, I just picked it up on the floor. It wasn't ripen yet so I couldn't eat.
Around the entrance to Banwolseong Fortress, there are zelkova trees standing mysteriously that form a forest. Quite strangely mysterious, isn't it? If you stare at it, you might feel like some old classical scholar would show up in the middle of nowhere.
When we got out of Gyerim, there was an enormously big cotton flower garden.
Oh, did you see the cotton flower? This is it. It's bloomed here and there, it looked so pretty.
This probably is cottonboll. When it is ripen, cotton wool inside it explodes. I would like to see the cotton wool inside but it didn't have it yet.
Address : 1, Gyo-dong, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do (경상북도 경주시 교동 1)
Two Must-eat Dessert in Gyeongju, 'Danseokga Chal bori ppang' vs. 'Hwangnamppang' 황남빵
There are tons of foods you have to taste in Gyeongju. When it comes to meal, there's grilled pork, pork jjigae, gukbap, milmyeon, gimbap, ddeokgalbi, and it goes like this on and on. But for dessert or bread for snack, there are only two originals in Gyeongju. Danseokga Chal bori ppang and Hwangnamppang! Of course you can find other kinds of bread in Gyeongju but everything else is newly made based on these two. So let's try both of these that represent snacks from Gyeongju and compare them. Shall we?
I could get them to-go from 5 to 40 breads but no matter how much I buy, there's no discount. Plus, they're expired in 3-4 days in room temperature so I couldn't buy as many as I wanted. Just like Hwangnamppang, expiration date is tight so we decided to buy 10. If it's okay to keep them for a long time, I would've bought a lot. Each one costs 600 won.
When I'm really hungry next time, I promise I'll buy a package of 40.
Chal bori ppang(barley bread) looks like this. Like a round sponge.
Like you could've imagined, it tastes so soft and moist like sponge and it has small amount of adzuki beans inside so it's properly sweet and tasty. When you finish one, you might think it's just okay…then you think of it when you get on the car, and then again while you drive, which proves it was quite attractive taste. Really delicious. I say it is worth to try.
Address : 2, Tapri 4-gil, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do (경상북도 경주시 탑리4길 2)
Telephone : 054-773-7520
Opening Hours : 08:00 - 20:00 (No holidays)
This time I'll show you Hwangnamppang(Hwangnam Bread). Danseokga Chal bori ppang(barley bread) is in Hwangnam-dong while Hwangnamppang bakery is Hwango-dong. It has a parking lot on the roadside so you can find it easily. Hwangnamppang was developed by Gyeongju Choi family in 1939, 75 years ago. They try to remember and reproduce the taste of rice cake or bread from Joseon Dynasty era. Unlike Danseokga, there's no chain store but only one bakery. Of course there are similar bakeries nearby but the original is this.
I bought a bigger box of bread to share them with others.
Yeah I spent some money. As a bigger person, I bought 20. ^^* It costs 16,000 won for 20 breads so one costs around 800 won.
The expiration date is around 3-4 days so if you bought it, you should finish it in a few days. There's no preservative in it so if you want to keep them fresh, put them in the fridge. If you keep them in the fridge, a week is okay.
As I split it into two, I saw the bread was full of adzuki beans. The taste is as you can imagine, my mouth was full of sweet taste. The skin is thin but it was soft yet hard. Inside this thin skin, it had full of adzuki beans so one was enough to make me feel kinda full. Now I see why it was a bit expensive. I ate it cold in the fridge and tried it after heating it in the microwave with milk, both were delicious the same. If you're in Gyeongju, you HAVE TO try Hwangnamppang along with Danseokga Chalborippang. They're the best!!!
Address : 72, Gyerim-ro, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do (경상북도 경주시 계림로 72)
Telephone : 054-749-7000
Opening Hours : 08:00 - 20:00 (No holidays)
